Well Howdy there feller Binglers. I
been darn busy rasslin them steer and shoowing dem coyotes and haven't
had a chance to spin some yarns with ya'll. We've gone from one
state to another, traversing not just different landscapes and
geographies, but spanning a spectrum of people and ways of life along
the road. You see, the world of bicycle touring isn't just all the
pretty places, but also the many faces that make the trip such a
wonderful, special thing. So sit back by the fire, get yerself some
of dem beans over yonder, and let me tell you a bit about some of the
past few weeks of my travels...
The Grand Canyon state surprisingly
only has one grand canyon. And it's way north. Our ride through
Arizona took us from the absolute north to the absolute south, and we
only saw one really really big canyon. But, as we left the bitter
and snowy environs of Flagstaff, we did descend through a canyon into
the mystical town of Sedona, where it turns out if we made $50,000 a
year we could have made $75 to listen to people try to sell us stuff.
We moosey'd on. Another day off due to passing storms, and we had a
long, long climb at high, snowy elevations before getting to the
small town of Payson, a nearly 70 mile ride of which 40 was tough
climbing. Karma was good and the next day was nearly all down hill
through dry arid desert towards Roosevelt lake, yet another
constipation caused by man interfering with the natural flow of the
earth's waters.
Leaving the lake behind we got our
first views of the might saguaro cactus that dominates much of the
southern desert land of Arizona. A few days ride had us into the
bicycle hopping city of Tucson. We had made it in time for the GABA
bike swap, a community driven bicycle swap meet that closes the heart
of the downtown. Picking up some parts for Dog, me and Chris swung
over to BICAS, a well known bike co-op where the community does it
bike work and bike art. An amazing, inspiring place for a well oiled
bike co-op that serves as an integral part of the community, cycling
and not cycling related. We stayed with fantastic people who made us
feel at home, they spun their fire, flew with yoga, played their
instruments, and were looking after a cute little dog too. A day's
side trip to Saguaro National Park to see more of the same exact
environment we'd seen the last few days, and then we were off further
south hoping to make our days even warmer. Wrong.
That first night out, camping in a
small town's fairgrounds, the air got chilly and we woke covered in a
fine frost. Brrr...shaking it off we pedaled for coffee and sat in
the sun eating our cereal. We had old westerns on our mind pulling
into Tombstone, home of the Earp brothers and the OK Corral. Sadly,
our shared history seems to be owned by a select few and they charge
money for the privilege of seeing or touching, so we didn't. We left dusty Tombstone for places of greater height, like Bisbee. We had been told by a Swiss biker going from Alaska to Argentina via everywhere that Bisbee was really cool and we could camp for free in town at the Occupy Bisbee camp. We were sold. A long day ending with a long hill and we made the artistic town in the mountains as the sun was setting. We found the Occupy camp and our Swiss friend too, seemed he didn't get enough the first time. A cold night camping, but hot coffee and lots of bike talk in the morning warmed us up.
All downhill to the bottom of Arizona, and we dipped our wheels in the forbidden fruit that is Mexico. Nobody blinked an eye as we cycled into Mexico, and the US custom guy coming out was NICE?!?!?! Are we more wary of our Canadian brothers and sisters? It seems so. We were not hassled once by any border patrol, no matter how blatantly we camped on the side of the road, which we do a lot. We spent the night where Geronimo gave up his last stand before heading into New Mexico, the land of so-called enchantment.
A few days ride through towns pretty desolate where even a tomato could not be had before we found some hint of what the hub bub is all about. After a night camping at a falling down death trap, we had to pass over the Black mountains which loomed ahead. Turns out, a narrow, beautiful canyon bisects it making the climb much easier and super beautiful. summiting at 8,228, a 12 mile downhill had us catching our breath in Hillsboro. An old mining town turned artsy, they welcome bikers to camp at the park, where the town folk cam and welcomed us, and the next morning, after being delayed by hail and lighting, had a wonderful lunch at their Monday potluck and were invited by a ranching couple to come stay with them down the hill, which we did once the skies cleared a bit.
And now, Las Cruces, the crossroads of old and new. We will spend thanksgiving here with a warmshower host before heading east towards White Sands, up up up to Cloudcroft and then down again towards Carlsbad Caverns and the start of the monstrously big, Texas.
The sights are many and varying, the faces change as often as do the lives behind them. But time and time again, I have found a golden thread that clings us all wonderfully together. Whether a cowboy duding it up, an artists growing cacti in the mountains, some guy driving trucks around the country, our hearts are filled with love, kindness and warmth that when given the chance, explodes outward and embraces those around us. Our constructed world and environment more often than not discourages this and frowns upon it, but in those moment when we are most vulnerable and in need of help, the rays of light that make up all life, human and non-human, shine brightest. Don't never be afraid to love, to give, to put yourself out there, to see it, feel it, hear it, touch it, taste it. This planet offers up the most delicious foods for us, and it would be silly not to try a little of it all. And better yet, to do it in some good company.
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| our new touring partner, Debra |
To learning day after day what love is, what freedom means and can be, and how incredible each moment pedaling continues to be, happy thanksgiving. Also, you can send general delivery mail to Alpine, Texas where we will be on December 6th.
General Delivery
Ross Guberman
US Post Office
901 w. Holland Ave
Alpine, TX 79830-9998
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